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A prime function of silicones in cosmetics is as emollients; they provide a protective layer to the skin and keep it moisturised

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A presentation by Croda suggests alternatives to silicones across a wide spectrum of uses. Crodamol STS (INCI: PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate) is a readily biodegradable emollient.

Its molecular structure is responsible for its perceived benefits with alkoxylation improving dispersibility; methyl branching promoting fluidity; ether linkages increasing polarity and improving compatibility with pigments; and the benzyl moiety confering better compatibility with sunscreens, sterols and fragrances.

BergaCare FG Olive from Berg + Schmidt is a blend of hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables offered as a new silicone alternative based on 100% olive as a source. It is said to mimic the sensory of cyclopentasiloxane, and can be used as an emollient in skin and hair care formulations.

It is compatible with all the usual cosmetic ingredients and is an ideal silicone-free emollient without compromise on texture.

Silicone derivatives are frequently used in cosmetic formulations to achieve appealing textures and a lightweight skin feel. With the growing demand for more natural and sustainable cosmetics, alternative solutions should provide a silicone-like texture with less environmental impact.

Symrise claims to have met these requirements with SymMollient PDCC (INCI: Propanediol dicaprylate/caprate) and SymMollient S green (INCI: Cetearyl nonanoate). In combination they can mimic the sensory profile of complex silicone derivatives.

Symrise tested this concept by sensory assessments conducted by a trained expert panel on formulations where different silicone derivatives were replaced by a combination of SymMollient S green and SymMollient PDCC without a significant difference in sensory profiles.

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