A prime function of silicones in cosmetics is as emollients. They provide a protective layer to the skin and keep it moisturised. They solubilise lipophilic active ingredients and crystalline UV filters and disperse pigments.

Emollients play an important role in determining the right skin feel of a cosmetic product and each emollient has its own skin sensory behaviour enabling it to deliver a unique skin feel[2].

From BASF we have Cetiol C5 (INCI: Coco caprylate), which has a similar skin feel to cyclomethicone, supports the incorporation of powders, enhances the solubility of crystalline UV filters and promotes oil deposition from body wash to skin.

Cetiol CC (INCI: Dicapryl carbonate) is described as a multifunctional dry emollient with good pH stability and perfume and propellant solubility, making it suitable for antiperspirant and deodorant applications.

Cetiol Ultimate (INCI: Undecane, tridecane) from BASF is described as an ultra-light, non-polar and volatile hydrocarbon alternative to cyclomethicone with a positive effect on the performance and stability of sun care formulations when compared with cyclomethicone.

Seppic markets a range of alkanes as replacements for volatile silicone oils under its Emosmart and Emogreen trade names, which were described at in-cosmetics Global 2019[3].

They are readily biodegradable, inert and non-polar, and are not sensitive to oxidation, pH change or oxidising and reducing media. As texturising agents, they have different sensory effects depending on the grades: Emosmart L15 presents a fresh sensory and a ‘nude skin’ after-feel; Emosmart C28 provides a comfortable and nourishing finish; and Emogreen is characterised by its longer playtime associated with a powdery after-feel.