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Perrformance tests

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The multiple performance benefits of silicone quaternium-22 can be demonstrated in various tests. In this communication we describe tests that show benefits of the product which are directly addressing end consumers’ needs and senses. The prototypical conditioning profile was scored by sensory assessments. In cooperation with TRI/Princeton repeated grooming experiments were performed to show the reduction of hair fibre breakage. Additional benefits like skin-feel and foam quality were evaluated through hand washing trials.


Conditioning profile via sensory assessment


Two types of cosmetic hair treatments have been applied as model systems: a standard conditioner rinse (Table 1) and a shampoo (Table 2). The test compound, silicone quaternium-22, has been incorporated into these base formulations in a standardised procedure. The evaluation was carried out using bundled European hair (length = 18 cm, weight = 4 g, supplier: Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH, Germany). The hair was pre-damaged by an intensive standardised bleaching process, which simulates typical damage by products commonly found in the market. The conditioning performance was assessed in a sensory hair swatch test by a panel of 10 experts using a standardised scale of 1 to 5, with 1 representing poor performance and 5 characterising excellent performance. The findings of the sensory assessment for Detangling, Wet Comb and Wet Feel as the most important sensory parameters are shown in Figure 5 for the conditioner rinse with various amounts of silicone quaternium-22 and in Figure 6 for the shampoo formulation with 0.8 weight per cent silicone quaternium-22. The conditioner rinse formulation was based on ceteareth-25 and cetyl alcohol, using cetrimonium chloride (CTAC) as the organic standard conditioning agent (Table 1). It is common in the personal care industry to use silicone derivatives in combination with organic quats because of their known synergistic effects. Therefore the test material, silicone quaternium-22, was examined in a base formulation containing CTAC. As can be seen in Figure 5 the well-known, sound conditioning properties of CTAC can be improved significantly by the addition of silicone quaternium-22 in low concentrations. The shampoo formulation was based on a combination of sodium laureth sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine with cationic guar as the standard conditioner (Table 2). Due to the pronounced substantivity of this cationic modified, hydrophilic polymer, cationic guar is applied as a so-called ‘deposition polymer’ in shampoo formulations. In this function it supports the activity of silicone based conditioning agents and increases the amount of the silicone based conditioning agents that are adsorbed onto the substrate. Figure 6 illustrates the explicit improvement in score for the combination of cationic guar and silicone quaternium-22. The sensory assessment shows that silicone quaternium-22 exhibits outstanding conditioning properties on hair from conditioner rinse and shampoo formulations. It significantly improves the combability of the hair and leads to excellent manageability


source from https://www.personalcaremagazine.com

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