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Engaging textures and sensations

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Another important consumer delighter in the colour cosmetics market space is the creation of interesting and engaging textures and sensations while continuing to honour the Clean Beauty lifestyle. As noted previously, esters, the starting materials of polyesters, are benign ingredients that are safe for both humans and the environment. SustOleo TL (Trilaurin) is a known ester that has been redeveloped by INOLEX according to the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry. Both the glycerin and lauric acid are derived from coconut oil, resulting in a non-palm version of Trilaurin 

Trilaurin creates interesting textures and sensations in water-based formulations, providing a fast melting sensation on skin with a slight cooling effect. The after-feel has a distinct powdery character similar to the sensory effect of some silicone elastomers. This dual melting and powdery experience can be attributed to the unique melt profile of SustOleo TL. Traditional esters and oils exhibit a distinct melting temperature as measuring by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). Traditional butters can exhibit either a distinct melting temperature or a melting temperature range. Trilaurin exhibited a unique melting profile with two distinct melting temperatures: 29.9 °C and 43.9 °C. This is characteristic of a polymorphic crystalline structure – two distinct crystalline phases – which results in a distinct sensory profile in formulation.5As such, Trilaurin was used to create new formulation textures and sensations: 

Icy Sensation Air Cream that looks whipped and airy, provides a cooling sensation during rub-in, and finishes velvety and smooth. 

Solid Foundation Stick that melts quickly and glides easily across skin and leaves a satiny soft finish.

An Overnight Renewal Serum that has a delicate softness as it is applied and ends with a velveteen touch after-feel. 

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