Raw material science | What are the common oils and fats in cosmetics?


The oil and fat raw materials used in cosmetics mainly include oils and fats, and are a general term for oil phase raw materials. They are also a kind of matrix raw materials. They are called oils in a fluid form at normal temperature, and are called semi-solid forms. The main components are advanced. Fatty acid esters. Mainly for skin care, lubrication, curing and other functions. Commonly used in creams or lotions.


According to different sources, oily raw materials can be roughly classified into animal oils, vegetable oils, mineral oils, semi-synthetic oils and related waxes. In general, skin absorbs the best of animal fats, followed by vegetable oils.


 1. Animal and vegetable oils and waxes


Common raw materials for animal and vegetable oils and waxes are: coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil, lanolin, beeswax, whale wax, jojoba oil, and the like. Such materials have high requirements for corrosion resistance.


olive oil
Olive oil is a fatty acid triglyceride, and its fatty acid composition is roughly proportional to: palmitic acid 9.0%, oleic acid 82.5%, linoleic acid 6.0%, stearic acid 2.3%, arachidic acid 0.2%, and trace amounts of myristic acid. It is a light yellow or yellowish green transparent liquid with a special aroma. Insoluble in water, slightly soluble in alcohol, soluble in light organic solvents such as ether and chloroform. Its iodine value is 180-88. Olive oil is mainly used for moisturizing and nourishing. It also has a certain sunscreen effect. It is often used as a fat-reducing agent or lubricant in W/O creams or lotions.


Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil is a multi-functional vegetable oil originally derived from the fruit of Simon. The molecularly distilled jojoba oil is a colorless and odorless transparent liquid, and its main component is unsaturated higher fatty acid. The approximate ratio is: 64.4% of 11-eicosenoic acid, 30.2% of 13-dodecenoic acid, and oleic acid 1.4. %, palm oleic acid 0.5%, and other saturated fatty acids 3.5%. The jojoba oil used in cosmetics has good stability, is easy to be fused with the skin and absorbed by the skin, has no greasy feeling, can also increase skin elasticity and dissolve sebum, and is a good emollient and degreaser.


Squalane
Squalane is a high-performance hydrocarbon oil obtained by hydrogenation of squalene extracted from the deep sea shark liver. It is also known as deep sea shark liver oil. Squalane is a hydrocarbon composed of six isoprene double bonds. It belongs to the terpenoid structure and has a freezing point of -31 ° C. It is a kind of animal oil with high chemical stability and excellent use. Good affinity, does not cause allergies and irritation, and accelerates the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin; it has low polarity and moderate spreading, and is pure, colorless and odorless. In addition, the growth of mold can be inhibited to some extent.


beeswax
Beeswax, also known as beeswax, can be divided into four major categories, namely esters, free acids, free alcohols and hydrocarbons. It also contains traces of volatile oils and pigments. Among the esters, there are stearic acid bee ester (about 80%, which is the main component of beeswax), beeswax, and peanut oleic acid; there is wax acid in the free acid (about 15%). , montanic acid, bee-acid, linoleic acid, guacamole, new wax; in the free alcohol, there are n-decyl alcohol, bee algaol; in the hydrocarbons, there are pentadecane, heptacosane, Hicocosane, triacontane and unsaturated beestriene.


Lanolin
Lanolin is a by-product of wool that has been washed, recycled and refined. Natural lanolin is a secretion of sebaceous glands in sheep skin. It is a mixture of various higher fatty acid esters and has a strong odor. Refined lanolin is an excellent emollient containing about 0.8% to 1.7% free sterol to improve the moisturizing and water absorption of lanolin.


Pure lanolin is yellow translucent, oily, viscous paste-like semi-solid, hardly soluble in water, but has good water absorption; soluble in 3:10 chloroform-dichloroethane mixture, slightly soluble in tetrachlorinated Carbon, diethyl ether and xylene. The temperature of 38 ° C ~ 42 ° C.


96% of the lanolin as a cosmetic raw material is an ester, that is, a mixture of a decyl alcohol, a triterpene alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid ester of a C24 to C28 alkane-diol. Among them, lanolin and lanolin are about 50% each.
Lanolin has a soft skin, prevents degreasing and retains moisture to prevent skin splitting, and is more easily absorbed by the skin than ordinary hydrocarbons. In addition, it can also play a certain role in assisting emulsification.