It is said that the innovation of cosmetics is essentially the innovation of raw materials. But as we all know, if you want to create a brand new raw material, it is a long-term process. As some people in the industry say, “Innovation of new raw materials for cosmetics has now entered the bottleneck period”, and it is not reasonable to say whether this is true, but it shows that the emergence of a new raw material is not an easy task. However, the market can be upgraded quickly, so they have their own methods and methods for how raw materials suppliers adapt to the fast-growing market rhythm.




As Bai Haojiang, manager of the pigment and functional materials business unit of Merck Chemical Technology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. said: “To achieve product innovation, on the one hand, innovation in new raw materials, companies need to have a long-term vision and investment in research and development. Seeing the future trend; on the other hand, it is to face the consumers, to make innovations in product formulations, and to upgrade technically."


So, let’s take a look today, half of the 2019 years, those related to the innovation of cosmetic raw materials!


01


In addition to anti-Blu-ray, but also against WiFi


In addition to the common UV protection, anti-aging, anti-pollution and anti-Blu-ray on the market, anti-WiFi has now officially joined the "protection" army. This concept was proposed by a Swiss raw material company, RAHN.




Dr. Stefan, the chief scientist of RAHN, said: "The skin will generate ROS in human cells under the illumination of WiFi and will lead to a series of cascade amplification reactions. First, peroxidation, followed by the formation of highly active free radicals, destroying the skin barrier. The anti-oxidation barrier, which in turn leads to substantial damage to the cells, eventually leads to premature aging of the skin. The reason why we think about the impact of WiFi on human skin is also based on the external environment, the human skin will actually evolve into the outside world. Radiation protection, but for modern electronic products, the human body does not have enough time to adapt and establish a protection system, and the WiFi frequency is 2.4ghz, which is the same frequency band as the microwave oven. Therefore, we cooperate with the University of Zurich to design related in vitro experiments. Monitor the damage caused by WiFi to the skin. After scientific human experiments and related data detection, we found that RADICARE®-GOLD does have some effect."


At present, the raw material has been used in cosmetics and has been listed in Paris since March, and the Korean and Japanese markets are also very interested in it.


The original source of this development was Tetradesmus, a freshwater algae that generates a special strategy to protect itself from solar radiation, especially high-energy visible light (HEV), during natural evolution. It forms a protective layer of carotenoids that acts like a Faraday barrier and blocks radiation.


Similarly, the skin also needs to fight against various types of radiation. For example, many cosmetics now have anti-blue light effects. Therefore, the anti-WiFi radiation concept came into being.


02


From shampoo two in one to shower gel two in one


Since the launch of the 2-in-1 shampoo in 1986, the “secret weapon” of silicone oil has made a contribution to P&G in the shampoo market for many years. It has also caused almost all shampoo brands to compete, but In 2019, after 36 years, the concept of shower gel two-in-one was put forward. Can it be another market rookie after the two-in-one shampoo?




Not long ago, the reporter met Pan Kemin, the chief researcher of Jimei Mei Chuang (Guangzhou) Technology Co., Ltd. at the Shanghai Jung Conference. Pan Kemin mentioned that they can now achieve the effect of shower gel care, and this concept was also proposed for the first time on the market.


“Generally, shower gels and body milk are separate products, but with the development of the 'lazy economy', it is a good idea to solve the technical difficulties in the raw materials. The concept of product innovation. In fact, this technology is the nano-emulsification technology that Pan Kemin has previously introduced, and is one of the core technologies of Hongyi New Materials.


In short, the biggest difference in the general bulk emulsification on the market is that the polymerization process is added during the process of emulsification, and silicon monomer, emulsifier and water are added, and polymerization and emulsification are carried out simultaneously under a certain environment and temperature. The nano-scale petroleum jelly obtained by the process has a particle size of less than 200 nm, and has the effects of effectively reducing the sticky feeling of the oil and the non-foaming of the surface active system, so that the shower gel and the body milk system can be well combined to achieve " The effect of washing.


03


Pleasure can also add to the beauty of the skin


All along, cosmetics are mainly concerned with the efficacy of the product itself, but I don’t know that it is also the potential value of cosmetics after “useful after use” and “feeling”. Many companies have studied the pleasure of this cosmetic in a deeper and broader field through the use of various technologies.


For example, Shanghai Shengju Testing Technology Co., Ltd., through the study of brain waves, evaluates the physical and chemical properties that exist objectively in cosmetics, such as different oil and fat raw materials, emulsifier raw materials, moisturizer raw materials, etc. Take the data and discover the different emotional characteristics reflected by the consumers to achieve the purpose of knowing which product or skin feeling they prefer.




The head of the Kao-sen sense science research institute has said: "The cosmetics and makeup behaviors make the mood positive, and the skin texture may also improve. In addition, I think this change in mood will also have an impact on the action."


When reporters visited Merck Photovoltaic Materials (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., Dr. Feng Peng, a senior market development commissioner, mentioned a new Merck extract, Cornflower extract, which has good anti-allergic and soothing effects. And can bring pleasure to the skin. It can be seen that raw materials with "pleasure" characteristics have now become an important direction for the research and development of raw material companies.


04


Skin micro-ecology: feeding bacteria and using bacterial compounds?


For micro-ecological skin care, it has been a hot topic in the past two years, and many companies have taken this “fast train”. There are opinions on how to maintain the balance of skin micro-ecology and inhibit harmful bacteria.


At the DSM “Perception of the Future” seminar in June, DSM also presented its new research on micro-ecological skin care. The more innovative methods on the market today are mainly feeding bacteria (prebiotics) and using bacterial compounds (probiotics). At present, prebiotics and probiotic skin care can meet the needs of healthy skin with a warm, transparent, smooth and radiant skin.




DSM said that the identification of two key genus on oily and dry skin is Propionibacterium and Corynebacterium. For example, P. acnes is the dominant bacteria in the facial microbiota (mostly), an important "goalkeeper" that can affect the production of oil, some strains are related to acne; and Corynebacterium koraiensis is a lipophilic bacterium. Common skin micro-populations increase with age and skin redness.


Therefore, DSM has launched the EPIBIOME BEAUTYTM solution, in which OXY 229 PF is a probiotic concept skin care active that is fermented by the unique baker's yeast strain VdH2, which not only reduces oil levels but also maximizes Reduces the level of Corynebacterium koraiensis to prevent facial redness; the other is the Fleet's willow flower/leaf/stem extract-ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM, which effectively reduces oil and P. acnes Content, thereby improving oily skin condition.