Brief Analysis of Sun Protection Formula in America, Japan and Europe

Sunscreen products in the three markets of the United States, Japan and Europe have their own characteristics, a bit like the three countries. Let's start with a UVA prevention and simply analyze their sunscreen formulations.

First, the characteristics of the US sunscreen formula

The US sunscreen formula is similar to the awkward, most orthodox, and the most commonly used anti-UVA component is the classic butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane. Sunscreen products are over-the-counter drugs in the United States. Sunscreen ingredients must be approved before they can be used. The US FDA has strict regulations. The number of sunscreen ingredients approved in the past few years is very small, so the US manufacturers still fight around butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. Circle.

The following is an example of the characteristics of the US sunscreen formula using the SPF45/Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF45 as an example. The whole composition is [1]:

Humolol ester, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, behenyl alcohol, butylated hydroxytoluene, butyl octyl salicylate, xin Polymethylsiloxane, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylate, polydimethylsiloxane, disodium EDTA, ethylhexyl stearate, ethylhexylglycerol, hydroxyphenylethyl ester , (daily) essence, glyceryl stearate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methyl paraben, PEG-100 stearate, phenoxyethanol, propylparaben, silica, polyacrylic acid Sodium, styrene/acrylic copolymer, tridecyl ether-6, trimethylsiloxysilicate, VP/hexadecene copolymer, water, xanthan gum

This product is a purified sunscreen formula that uses six chemical sunscreens, including humulizate, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. , diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylate. The last is the patented ingredient of Neutrogena, so it does not appear in the list of approved sunscreens.

The formulation is characterized by the use of Helioplex technology to stabilize butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane with two components, benzophenone-3 and diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, claiming to provide longer lasting effect on UVA. protection of. The photosensitivity of benzophenone-3 is relatively large, so this product is mixed, some have been promoted for a lifetime, and some have used a stimulating reaction, resulting in a lifetime of black.
Let's look at emollients, mainly oil components such as butyl octyl salicylate, octyl polymethylsiloxane, and polydimethylsiloxane. Butyl octyl salicylate is an excellent solvent and emollient. The two silicone oils provide a lubricious hand and give the product a certain degree of water resistance.

Water-repellent styrene/acrylic copolymers, trimethylsiloxysilicates and VP/hexadecene copolymers are commonly used as film formers for sunscreen products. Plus two silicone oils, it does have a waterproof and anti-sweat effect. No use of polyol or alcohol, the purpose is to ensure the waterproofness of the product, the price is thick, although the use of silica to improve, it is recommended to try before buying.

Summary: The basic skeleton of the US sunscreen system is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + benzophenone-3, which is cost-effective and does not feel bad for use. If the skin is not sensitive and does not care about the skin, American products are a good choice, but it is not enough.

Second, the characteristics of Japanese sunscreen formula
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is unstable and not united, and the patent is not in its own hands. Therefore, Japanese manufacturers simply avoid it, and one mind casts on the modification of zinc oxide to maximize the performance of zinc oxide. Japan's nano-zinc oxide technology and surface treatment technology are unique in the world, like Dongwu's water army, the world's best in combat. The following is an example of ALLIEExtra UV Gel Mineral Moist Neo SPF50+ PA++++. The characteristics of Japanese sunscreen formula are as follows:

Water, ethanol, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octyldodecanol myristate, hexyl diethyl hydroxybenzoylbenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, butanediol , sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, isohexadecane, triethoxyoctylsilane, polymethylsiloxane, polysorbate Alcohol ester-80, xanthan gum, nylon-12, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methyl polytrimethylsiloxane, disodium EDTA, sodium hyaluronate, kelp extract, Soluble collagen, royal jelly extract, carambola leaf extract, Chuanbei seed extract

This sunscreen product is a combination of physical + chemical sunscreen. The amount of zinc oxide is about 9.5%, the amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is about 7.5%, and the amount of diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate is About 2.5%, the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is about 0.5-1%.

The combination of zinc oxide + ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is common in Japanese sunscreen products. From the high-end sun-resistant to the open-cut Bijo, this combination is everywhere, showing how much the Japanese like oxidation. Zinc is a raw material. Zinc oxide has good protection performance, can absorb oil, and has high anti-corrosion effect. It is especially suitable for blending with alcohol to achieve a light skin feel, which perfectly matches the requirements of consumers.

The ALLIE formula is characterized by the ADVAN technology, which treats zinc oxide into a flat sheet shape to form a dense and flat sunscreen layer, avoiding powder overlap and whitening. Japan's zinc oxide raw materials are often made into nano-materials in the form of flakes or petal-like structures, so it is possible to make extraordinary products with unobtrusive raw materials. Although zinc oxide is marked on the ingredient list, it is the key to the success of Japanese products in these invisible places.

Ethanol/alcohol ranks second, (determined by gas phase analysis test) content is about 9-10%, with zinc oxide to prevent corrosion, so no preservatives are added. Ethanol will take away moisture when it is volatilized, and the effect of zinc oxide is that the skin feels refreshing, the disadvantage is that it is pulled out, sensitive skin is used with caution, and dry skin is best to experience before buying.

The emulsification and thickening system uses sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer + isohexadecane + polysorbate-80 (simulgel EG) to form a reverse thickener which does not require neutralization. The skin feels moist and light, but the load on the oil is limited. Emollients include octyldodecanol myristate and several silicone oils, without the use of film formers, and are generally water resistant.

Summary: If it is oily skin, and it is very concerned about skin feel, Japanese combination of zinc oxide and ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate is a good choice, enough in daily life.

Third, the characteristics of European sunscreen formula
Europe is undoubtedly Cao Wei, the largest site, the strongest, the anti-UVA components approved in recent years are basically from the hands of European manufacturers. Even with traditional butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, there are many patents in the hands of European manufacturers. For example, L'Oreal was patented in the mid-1990s, and octagonal to stabilize butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The most commonly used light stability technology.

The following is an example of the characteristics of the European sunscreen formula by taking the Mentholatum New Bishui Thin Refreshing Sunscreen SPF30 as an example. The whole composition is:

Water, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butyl phenol, polyglycerol - 6, polysorbate-60, ethylhexyl triazinone, diethyl hydroxybenzoylbenzoic acid hexyl ester, betaine, phenoxyethanol, sorbitan stearate, cetearyl alcohol, PEG- 100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hydrogenated lecithin, panthenol, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Acetylated sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed collagen, tetrahydromethylpyrimidinecarboxylic acid, PORTULACA OLERACEA extract, tocopherol acetate, LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA extract, 1,3-propanediol, EDTA disodium, methylparaben, propylparaben, carbomer, triethanolamine

This product uses a purified sunscreen formula with 6 chemical sunscreens. The formulation is characterized by the use of Solarex-3 technology, which is methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butyl phenol, ethyl hexyl triazinone, diethyl hydroxy benzoyl benzoate hexyl ester and double - Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine packaged combination. This technology comes from BASF and is also useful in other products such as Lancome's soft sunscreen lotion.

These sunscreens are combined with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl salicylate to achieve broad-spectrum stable protection. These chemical sunscreens are basically liquid synthetic esters, together with silicone oils and other oils and fats to create a moisturizing skin feel, suitable for use on dry skin. No film former was added, no film former was used, and water resistance was normal.

Summary: European sunscreen formula is commonly used in a variety of chemical sunscreens, skin feels more moist, suitable for dry skin.
Summary: US sunscreen products with butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane as the core, cost-effective. Japan's sunscreen products are zinc oxide with ethyl hexyl cinnamate, which is suitable for daily use in oily skin. European sunscreen products are generally moisturized and suitable for use on dry skin.

The above-mentioned product formula features are only general summary, not absolutely. For example, American products also use zinc oxide, European products also use butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and Japan also has a formula or skin for purifying sunscreen. A very fascinating product. So before buying a sunscreen product, it's best to try it out before making a decision.