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    2019-11-02 5

    Nowadays, when people choose skin care products and cosmetics, they are paying more and more attention to ingredients. Even a group called "component party" has emerged. To a certain extent, this is a good thing, indicating that everyone is beginning to pay attention to the essence of cosmetics (not just concepts).

    All cosmetics are made up of several systems, the most typical of which is the emulsion.

    The so-called milk is a mixture of water and oil to form a product that looks like milk. Therefore, first of all, the ingredients in this area can be divided into two categories: water-soluble components, oil-soluble components, professionally known as "aqueous phase" and "oil phase" components.

    However, water and oil are naturally mutually exclusive. Without a means, they cannot be allowed to coexist peacefully. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce a third component: a component that helps the water phase and the oil phase to “hand in hand”. The so-called "emulsified" component, that is, a surfactant or an emulsifier.

    These three together, can not form the texture we want, may be very thin, just like milk, very easy to flow. At this time, the fourth major category will be introduced, called thickening ingredients, such as cellulose, algin, and xanthan. Typically this is a colloid that provides the necessary viscosity and spreadability.

    The above four components constitute the skeleton and foundation of a cosmetic, which we call a matrix, or a carrier.

    It is not enough to apply only oil and water on the face. We also need to repair, calm, whiten, anti-allergic, anti-oxidant, anti-aging and so on. These must introduce the fifth major component, which can be said to be all-encompassing. It is called “active ingredient” or “effective ingredient”. For example, everyone is familiar with nicotinamide, vitamin E, retinol and so on.

    Finally, the product has a validity period of 2-3 years. It must be ensured that the product is not mildewed, does not rot, and does not deteriorate. At this time, another type of ingredient will be introduced: antiseptic and stable type, which includes both preservatives, such as parabens. Classes, etc., also include some antioxidants to avoid rancidity such as oils and fats.

    The above is a typical product form. On this basis, it can be increased or decreased, such as gel, spray, and surface film, it is not necessary to use the oil phase; for compound essential oils, the water phase is not necessarily needed, because they may be self-contained and do not need to add preservatives. .

    Here you need to explain:

    The matrix component may also be an active ingredient, such as glycerin or sodium hyaluronate, which is an active ingredient having a moisturizing function, but is also one of the components of the aqueous phase matrix, and may even be thickened by sodium hyaluronate. Of course, they are mainly active ingredients. The oil phase matrix, such as petrolatum, also acts as a moisturizing agent to help promote skin barrier repair, so it is also an active ingredient in terms of function.

    In theory, any ingredient applied to the skin will affect the skin and therefore belong to a functionally active ingredient – as Professor Kligman said, even water is the only way to affect the skin, which directly promotes the “medicine”. In-depth study of cosmetics.