Oil phase raw material
Oil phase refers to oil or oil-soluble substances, including triacylglycerols, fatty alcohols, waxes, wax esters, fatty acids, and mixtures of the foregoing (such as lanolin).
The main functions are barrier, moisturizing, cleaning, solvent, emulsification and curing.

According to the source, it can be divided into:
Animal and vegetable oils
The main component of animal origin is fatty acid triglyceride (triacylglycerol)
Plant-derived mainly fatty acids, such as lauric acid (strongly irritating, generally not used alone, but used in the production of soap base), myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl ester, oleic acid (18-carbon one) Oleic acid), linoleic acid (octadecadienoic acid), linoleic acid (octadecatrienoic acid).
The longer the carbon chain of a fatty acid, the harder it will be, as will fatty alcohols.
Since the ethylenic bond is not saturated with a chemical bond, the oil containing an ethylenic bond is called an unsaturated lipid and is easily oxidized, so it also has oxidation resistance.
Animal and vegetable fats and oils are usually not a single ingredient, but a mixture of various lipids. E.g:
Coconut oil: composed of lauric acid (50%), myristic acid (32%), unsaturated acid (8%)
Olive oil: octadecanoic acid (82.5%), containing vitamins A, B, E
Camellia seed oil: high vitamin content, special odor, high viscosity and greasy
Peony seed oil: very expensive (large cooking smoke), the performance of cosmetics may not be good enough, the active content may be relatively high, the smell and greasy feeling are not ideal
Palm oil: hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid, 50%), octadecanoic acid (oleic acid, 40%), easy to saponify, used in the manufacture of soaps and surfactants
Almond oil (actually almond oil): mainly octadecanoic acid (oleic acid, 70%; linoleic acid 17%), can be used as a substitute for olive oil
Evening Primrose Oil: mainly octadecanoic acid (oleic acid, 70%)
Sea buckthorn oil: high vitamin E and carotenoid content
Wheat and corn germ oil: high in vitamin E, can be used as a nutrient
Mink oil: oleic acid content is 0. It is very good for anti-freezing and crack resistance in winter, but animal oil has some odor and needs refining to be more suitable.
Jojoba oil: also known as jojoba oil, mainly composed of long carbon chain unsaturated fatty acids (eicosa monoenoic acid, docosaic acid, eicosyl alcohol, docosahexanol), Joba oil is a high-quality oil that is safe and low-irritating to all kinds of skin.


Wax
It is an ester of a saturated higher organic acid and a saturated higher alcohol. Such as:
Carnauba wax: composed of hexadecanoic acid (wax acid), tridecyl alcohol (bee mellow alcohol), and hexadecanol (wax alcohol), bright color, added in lipstick to increase color
Others are small candle tree wax, Chinese wax (Chuan wax, insect wax), beeswax, etc.
Lanolin: a variety of mixed fatty alcohols, sterols, isodecyl alcohols, normal acids, isomers, etc., have a certain irritant, it is not recommended to be directly used in cosmetics. It is required to be hydrolyzed into lanolin and lanolin, or to be hydrogenated lanolin (ointment), acetylated lanolin (paste), lanolin ethoxylate, lanolin ethoxylate, and the like.


Mineral oil
White oil: The most commonly used (liquid paraffin, mineral oil) is a mixture of normal/isoparaffins. The larger the grade, the higher the viscosity. It is a non-polar oil with good lubricity and film formation, and it can soften skin and hair. As a sealer for moisturizing products.
Petrolatum: “Vaseline”, a mixture of high-carbon alkanes (isomers) and high-carbon olefins of C16~C32 (ie 16-32 carbon atoms), which is the most moisturizing and sealing grease, which can be used in emulsions and pastes. Cream, lipstick, and wax are also the main matrix components of various drug ointments. The main lipid component of the familiar wax cream is petrolatum.
Paraffin: A mixture of branched or cyclic hydrocarbons of the C16-C40 body used in waxing, balsam, blush, lipstick, etc.
Ground wax: a mixture of straight, branched and cyclic hydrocarbons above C25, primary wax (melting point 74-78 degrees) for emulsion, secondary ground wax (melting point 66-68 degrees) for curing of lipstick and wax Agent
Microcrystalline wax: a wax with a relatively high viscosity, which is extracted from petroleum and used in lipsticks because of its relatively solid nature.

Synthetic lipid
Squalane: Strictly derived from nature, only hydrogenated squalene. Human sebum naturally contains squalane and alkene. It is generally considered to be low in irritation, soft in skin, low in oiliness, good in skin permeability and lubricity, and high in olive oil. (The oxidation of squalene is related to acne and yellowing of the skin color, so it also has its problems)
Caprylic/capric glyceride (GTCC): a lot of (star) oils and fats, low freezing point, not greasy
Isopropyl palmitate (IPP): good permeability and skin compatibility, ductility, not easy to hydrolyze and oxidative deterioration, used in advanced products, bright and non-greasy. Similarly, isopropyl myristate (IPM) is acne-prone
Silicone oil: There are dimethylsiloxane, cyclosiloxane, etc. If there is no silicone oil, the cosmetics industry will go backwards a lot. As a silicone polymer, there are many silicone oil models, which have many properties, soft and smooth, so they can be seen in various products. Very stable, no irritation; negative effects are not easily degraded in the environment
Is natural oil used in cosmetics?
This cannot be generalized. For example, coconut oil is too irritating because of its high lauric acid content. It is not suitable for making cosmetics directly (but it has advantages in making soap), but jojoba oil is very good (price is also expensive) a lot of).
In fact, refined mineral oil is very irritating and safer.